Les Philosophes

I initially discovered Les Philosophes (28, rue Vieille du Temple) on one of my too-many-to-count shopping days in my neighborhood, the Marais. With a lively sidewalk terrace that is open all year long (gotta love heat lamps!) and a wide range of drinks (from French wines to chocolat chaud, from caipirinhas to Marriage Frères tea), it is the perfect spot to rest your weary feet, and enjoy the eye-candy. I once read that, contrary to its name, you will never hear a serious conversation take place at Les Philosophes.

To my great pleasure, I soon discovered that Les Philosophes also serves good food! (Though really, think of it more as a glorified wine bar). Brunch is one habit that this ex-New Yorker can't kick, and for 19 euros, theirs is an excellent choice for a lazy Sunday morning. It includes a bread basket, eggs, fromage blanc, fresh fruit, and your choice of warm drink. For lunch or dinner, definitely try the tarte tatin à la tomate.

Not to miss ... the bathrooms! The café was designed by Xavier Denamur who also did several of the other cafes nearby, including L’Etoile Manquant, which is a few doors down.

French work ethic?

Too bad lawyers don't have RTT...

The Basics

Paris is divided into 20 administrative districts, or arrondissements, that start at the heart of the city, and spiral outwards clockwise like a snail. Each arrondissement has its own atmosphere, ranging from artsy to alternative and from to highbrow to elegant.

Getting around these arrondissements is relatively easy: whether by foot, public transport (bus, metro, RER), or by taxi. Of course, for public transport, always be sure to check to see whether the workers are on strike (en grève).

Unlike in New York, you cannot simply hail a taxi in Paris. You will need to find a taxi stand, indicated by a large blue sign. (I can't tell you how many times my female friends have been refused rides late on a rainy night). Or, you can call one of the several taxi companies to arrange pick-up, either immediately or in advance. Taxis G7 also have an English-speaking number.

Café Culture

Just the other day, one of my Parisian friends asked me "What is it you love about Paris?" Of course, that's one of those rhetorical questions ... except that this time, I had to give a concrete answer. So, I started thinking about what it was that initially won me over when I came to this remarkable city for the first time, when it hit me ... cafés!

For me, one of the ultimate pleasures is to plant myself in one of these Parisian institutions, alone or with friends, with or without a good book. I consider people watching to be a sport, and in fact, you'll often see friends at a café sitting next to each other, so that both have a good view. Another plus, no good waiter will rush you out of a café.

Tipping: Regardless of what the waiter says, tips are by law always included in the bill. That said, it's custom to always leave a little something extra for your server to “have a drink on you” (= un pour boire). While not a hard and fast rule, 5% is a good standard.

Helpful hint: If you order a coffee in France, you will get an espresso, black. For an espresso with a drop of cream, order a café noisette. For a coffee that most resembles American coffee, order a café crème or a café au lait.

Paris, je t'aime!

My decision to move to Paris almost 2 years ago (has it been that long already??) was not a complete whim. I've been a Francophile for as long as I can remember: attending a nerdy French summer camp in high school, living in la Maison française while studying in Virginia, just "happening" to work for a law firm that has a Paris office... So, when I got offered the chance to come here to work indefinitely, the decision (oui, bien sûr) took all of about 3 minutes. Within a few short months, I said my bittersweet goodbyes, and packed up my New York apartment to begin my new life as an "American in Paris".

This blog started as a short "tour guide" that I put together for the family and friends who have passed through Paris since I've been here. It's a chance to share all the things I love (eating/drinking, touring, shopping) about Paris.

Enjoy!